Bánh Bêo
We'd scheduled a tour with our guide to the Tomb of the Emporer Minh Mang (1820-1849). The temple was a short drive from town but it was a world away from the hustle of Huè. The land surrounding the temple had been well-kept. The lawns were well manicured and a dam which surrounded the temple had been dug by hand. The Emporer's remains have been entombed somewhere beyond a heavily closed door at the top of a huge flight of stairs.
Thien Mu Pagoda can be accessed by dragon boat or car. Our guide took us to the Buddhist pagoda which was beautiful. Afterwards, a dragon boat took us up the Perfume River where we disembarked (rather unconventionally) through muddy grass on the bank of the river.
We were headed to Lac Thien - a restaurant of the Deaf and Mute (commonly described in guidebooks) for Bánh Bêo and phở for lunch.
Hué pancake (Bánh Bêo) is similar to the Bánh Xeo of the south - served with a huge plate of greens - lettuce and herbs. Unlike the Bánh Xeo we ate in Saigon and Hoi An a peanut sauce is the accompaniment and it is served without rice paper to roll it.
The phở was distinctly different to its southern soup of the same name. The stock was spicier and heavier. We were given greens to eat with the phô but no lemon, bean shoots and although the greens were varied their was no Vietnamese mint which gives the phô of the south it's characteristic freshness.
P made her first 'friend' at Lac Thien. The wife of the owner must have known the way to her heart - and she offered P a prawn which P gladly took. The woman and P didn't exchange words but they made a connection and P was more than happy to have cuddles while we ate.
Lac Thien - Restaurant of the Deaf and Mute
6 Dinh Hoang, Hue, Vietnam
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