day twelve: dec 27 Hà Nôi

The streets of Hà Nôi were adorned with these banners. The North Vietnamese were commemorating forty years since the end of a ten-day American bombing campaign over Christmas in the city. We spoke with locals about the anniversary and whilst it resonated as an important date on the calendar there wasn't a thirst for revenge. People just seemed to think that acknowledgement of the date was important and that, as they say, "life goes on."

It was strange to think that these banners, that celebrated the end of the American (and Australian) invasion of Vietnam could be viewed as propaganda too and, as they say, "there's always two sides to a story."

This morning we took a walk along the lake to 'Book Street' (Ba Trieu) and visited a 3D trick exhibition. The street is also lined withbook stores where we had fun perusing English and, mostly Vietnamese, books.

 

Sun Handicrafts was a discovery we made while walking to lunch. Fabric necklaces (200VD = $8AUD) hats, scarves, women's clothes and fabric buttons are all made onsite. I was particularly taken by the handmade quilts - single, double and pram sized - but I knew we couldn't fit them in our case on the trip home.

 

We headed to Xôi Yên for lunch which had a great view of the street. They served a few variations of a rice dish and I settled on Gà luôc. Against all instinct rubbish is thrown on the floor during a meal and so your feet are surrounded by used paper napkins and pieces of gristle.

Gà luôc

Sticky rice (savoury) with grated beans (possibly butter beans), crunchy fried garlic, shredded chicken pieces, served with cucumber pickle on the side.

Cucumber pickle

According to many websites we simply had to visit Ca Cha La Vong for dinner. Ca Cha La Vong has a cult following, probably due to its inclusion in the Lonely Planet guidebook. We arrived at Ca Cha La Vong just on 6:30pm and were seated immediately. Moments later the restaurant was full and within an instant we were served the dish that has made Ca Cha La Vong famous and given the restaurant its named because it is the only dish you can eat there. Fried fish.

What makes Vietnamese food taste so fresh are the stacks of fresh herbs and greens. This dish needs more of them. Although tasty, I found it very oily, but the greens did give the dish a slight 'I don't feel like I just drank oil' feel afterwards. Accompaniments also included roasted peanuts, chilli/garlic oil and steamed rice. The beer we ordered also helped to cut through the grease.

At the end of the meal we asked for the bill which came to 360,000VD ($18AUD) which was far than we were expecting, more than we were carrying on us and too much for a meal for two. J literally tried five nearby ATM's before he was able to withdraw cash while we waited for his return.

We finished the night with dessert at Green Tangerine with our very own chocolate truffle fritters perfumed with tamarind and the red fruit flower sauce! Fortunately, for me, that wasn't the end of my night because I was lucky enough that J offered to take the children back to bed at the hotel.

Meanwhile I SUPER indulged in a package at SF Salon and Spa which had been recommended by our hotel while their own spa was under renovation. The coconut pre-sun package included 3.5 hours of blissful attentiveness.

"Freshly-grated coconut is used to smooth and moisturize the skin with a gentle exfoliation, leaving it in perfect condition to receive the sun. A great start to your holiday! For all skin types, this treatment is also a perfect preparation for a Body massage and also ideal combined with a facial care.
– Steam Bath or Sauna or Jacuzzi
– Massage Therapy with Coconut Oil
– Coconut Exfoliation
– Facial Care by Coconut and Cucumber
(Offer free coconut juice)"

Are you enticed? Believe me, this was the very best final night on a brilliant trip. The package set me back abut $60AUD but a package like this here would cost hundreds. My skin was left feeling rejuvenated and silky soft and I slept like a (well rested) baby!

Xôi Yên
35b, Nguyen Huu Huan Street, Hoan Kiem Ward, Hà Nôi City Province
(04) 3934 1950

Sun Handicrafts
46 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hà Nôi

Ca Cha La Vong
14 Pho Cha Ca Old Quarter
Phone 04 3825 3929
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam/hanoi/restaurants/seafood/cha-ca-vong

Green Tangerine
48 Hang Be Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hà Nôi, Vietnam.
Tel : +84 4 3825 1286 Fax :+84 3828 9167.
Email: enquiry@greentangerinehanoi.com
http://greentangerinehanoi.com/

SF Salon and Spa
16 Hàng Buồm, Hoan Kiem District Hà Nôi, 
Vietnam‎+84 4 3926 2032
http://sfcompany.net/