day seven: dec 22 Hội An - Huè

Citadel

The three hour drive from Hội An to Huè over the mountains and along the coastline can also be done by train. Oh - and if you're crazy that way inclined you can do it on bicycle (we met people who were). Either way you'll travel through Đà Nẵng, across the Hải Vân Pass, "Pass of the Ocean Clouds" which was once under the control of the US military and for centuries has marked the distinct border between north and south Vietnam. The trip is spectacular.

Once in Huè we checked in to the Camellia Hotel. With the slogans, "beyond expectations" and "we serve everything with heart" and smoking permitted in the foyer I had the feeling this wouldn't be our favourite stay. Smoking was also allowed in the breakfast dining room (and people did, while we ate). The staff were attentive but the lobby, pool area and 'oriental' over-styled rooms, desperately need a modern makeover. Some rooms included a plastic fantastic, and very dusty, bamboo garden in the corner of the room. Thankfully we required a larger room so ours came without.

The best thing to do when the hotel is bad is to get out! We attempted to walk from the hotel to the citadel but with broken paths and excavating of drains we opted for a rickshaw ride which was fabulous!

* Note: if you're heading to Huè be sure to have a rickshaw tour of the Old Town on your arrival. We left it to our last day but we should have done it on our first. The tour (depending on your guide) will give you invaluable insight into the America War according to North Vietnamese but, just as significantly, give you the bearings of this city.

We ate dinner at the Dong Ba Market. Whenever we've travelled in the past we've made certain we've learned a few key phrases. This time, probably because we were so focused on a relaxed flight (is there such a thing with children) we didn't but that didn't mean we couldn't make ourselves understood.

We watched a few stalls and noticed numerous take-away dishes being taken away by motorcyclists to nearby homes as well as diners frequenting this restaurant so we pointed at what the locals were eating and this is what we were served.  The ladies never left their foot-high stools as they grabbed at the prepared food at their fingertips. They assembled these dishes for us - pork skewers and peanut sauce, beef and noodles (chilled) with peanut sauce and you can see the stacks of fresh salad!

It was good and it was cheap.