northern territory: kakadu, gagadju, animal tracks

It seems like a lifetime ago but about 18 months ago we were sitting a fancy Christmas dinner in Sydney with a bunch of Js colleagues. We were discussing our plans to do the big lap of Australia when one colleague insisted we do Patsy's tour in Kakadu. "If you are a foodie," he'd said, "you'll love it." 

I did a bit of research and a few weeks ago I found the notes of made for the Animal Tracks tour which leaves from Cooinda Lodge where we were staying with my parents. 

My parents were happy to mind the big kids while J and I headed out for the evening. I don't want to spoil the surprise for anyone who might take this tour but it really was a great experience. 

Attendees collected seasonal produce - fresh water mussels, bush carrots and what was left of water chestnuts at the end of a dry dry season. 

Preparing the magpie goose. Pluck, singe feathers, gut, portion, cook, eat. 

Patsy taught us some bush medicine and then her and our host Mark cooked our dinner the traditional way - on coals in a paperbark oven. We ate buffalo, magpie goose and barramundi on the edges of wetlands where thousands, some say millions, of magpie geese were nesting. 

It wasn't long before the loveable whistling kites came in for their share.  Back in the bus two dingos could be seen circling what was left of our feed.  

Thanks for the tip Paul. We are so pleased we took this tour. 

tasmania: strahan to brady's lake via franklin river nature trail

The road from Queenstown, however diverse, is almost unbearably windy. The landscape has been heavily affected by mining and I heard one traveller describe it as beautiful. While we disagree entirely it is interesting to see the difference with the rainforests of the area.

A good supply of snacks (crackers, Tassie apples) and the iPods chockful of audiobooks has made car travel pretty good. We leave for the first leg when Baby A has his morning sleep (9:30) and sometimes stop before a campsite (depending on how far we've got to go) but by leaving early in the morning we can still travel for an hour or two after lunch if need be. 

After the windy, windy roads from Queenstown we were all pleased to escape from the car at the Franklin River Nature Trail. J & I stopped here when we drove around Tassie about ten years ago. The trail is a short walk through rainforest to the river and it's beautiful - a perfect lunch stop too!

The kids stripped off for a dip in the river. Baby A had his feet in the water - kicking & splashing - and he cried each time we took him out. 

It's not hard to understand the affection people have for this state & the environment. 

Our final stop before Bradys Lake was The Wall - just out of Derwent. Ten years ago, when we visited, The Wall was just two panels but there are almost one hundred metres of Tasmanian and Australian history carved in the Huon Pine. This is a must-see.