queensland: mission beach

From Babinda Boulders we headed south. We'd really wanted to see western Queensland and it was difficult to decide whether to stay on the coast or head inland. We had to carefully consider what we wanted to do. We were meeting friends a few days later in Airlie so it would have been impractical to head west only to turn around and go back to the coast.

Western Queensland is a trip we will do sometime though. We were surprised that we enjoyed visiting little inland towns so much. There are always things to see too- not just the towns themselves. I believe we've really seen so much diversity on the trip. When I here politics on the radio I o think about all these little communities being represented. After all this country is so much more than Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane and the people who inhabit the cities.

A family we met at Rocky Creek Memorial Park between Atherton and Mareeba recommended a stay at Mission Beach on our way south. 

The council run caravan park charges $21 a night for an unpowered site and $24 for powered. We chose the unpowered option and had a site a stone's throw from the beach (only slightly further away than our site at Wonga Beach). We've found that generally unpowered sites are better if you can power yourselves. Sometimes they'll have water but our two 95 litre water tanks were plenty. Powered sites are often closer to the water or tucked in to a bit of bush whereas the powered ones have to be up close to power supply and you'll be crammed in with other caravanners.

Our two night stay didn't feel long enough so we extended by another night. It was on the third night that we met a family from the United States travelling with two of their three children. We got chatting and realised we all knew another travelling family from the U.S. We really enjoyed the company of Phil and Amanda and so we loosely planned to catch up with them further down the road - as in - we agreed that it would be great to hang out again and we were heading in the same direction and we might go to the same places but maybe at different times but if we saw each other again that would be great and we might keep in contact. That's what it's like on the road! 

Each morning (once even before breakfast) we'd go straight out on to the beach which looks out towards Dunk Island. The kids would play in the ocean. Though the coast's economy is dependant on tourism it doesn't have that crowded feeling that other popular places have. 

Miss May Blossom Facebook http://www.facebook.com/MissMayBlossom Pinterest http://www.pinterest.com/MissMayBlossom/ Instagram http://instagram.com/missmayblossom

queensland: cairns, holloway beach

HMAS Stuart happened to be in town in Cairns and J and the kids went aboard to visit our friend Kiwi! It was a great reunion as J and Kiwi had worked together for years in Sydney. The kids just love Kiwi!

A friend lives at Holloway Beach - just north of Cairns and we were happy to have a few nights in her drive way. We all loved being so close to the beach. Cathy did as best she could to convince us to stay long-term. Cairns has always had a question mark over the top of it - as to whether we could live there but we were sweating like crazy before 11am and we hadn't yet his the build-up. As much as I liked the big town/small city feel I just don't think we could have stayed. 

Miss May Blossom Facebook http://www.facebook.com/MissMayBlossom Pinterest http://www.pinterest.com/MissMayBlossom/ Instagram http://instagram.com/missmayblossom

northern territory: bitter springs to elliot, devil's pebbles

It was a very long day in the car, one of our longest from Bitter Springs to Elliot, a small town halfway between Darwin and Alice Springs. The Longreach Waterhole free camp, on a dirt road out of town, had the red tick in Camps 8 so we were eager to see how it measured up. Our friends, Fifty Toes Walkabout, had planned to stay overnight there too and we were pleased that there was space to pull up near them. This family are virtually our neighbours in Sydney and there we were by a remote billabong in NT, catching up.

There were loads of sites along the water. A grassy outlook (not dusty) is always a preferable floor at the entrance to a van too. 

Longreach Waterhole was home to many bird species including terns, pelicans, kites. It was teaming with wildlife! 

We got dinner together as the kids played and the two families sat down together to share experiences we'd had since leaving Sydney. We slept well that night after a fire and chat once the kids were in bed. The stars were endless and the quiet such a comfort. It reminded us of nights on the family farm near Bega. 

Elliot to Kunjarra (Devil's Pebbles)

Devil's Pebbles or Kunjarra is a beautiful free camp just south of Three Ways off the Stuart Highway. While we aren't snobby about free camps it is so wonderful to stay in an impressive one. 

Devil's Pebbles, I imagine, are the smaller version of the Marbles. There's a short loop walk through the pebbles and visitors are asked to remain on the path so as to avoid trampling this sacred site.

northern territory: katherine to bitter springs

We popped in to the wonderful Finch Cafe before leaving the town of Katherine. Locals must be pleased to have a place that serves great coffee, decent food and a well-equipped kids playroom!

Mataranka is a popular place and it's easy to see why. It's accessible and not a bad dip - lolling about on a noodle. The kids loved diving for rocks in the bottom of the pool (much to the dismay of a grumpy grey). 

Bitter Springs is definitely our preferred swimming option though. We camped at the campground nearby which meant we could get down to the warm water nice and early before it had been stirred up. I was so pleased that J suggested that I throw on the snorkel. The visibility was incredible and while there wasn't much to see (turtles, weed, plants) seeing the underwater world just adds to the experience. 

Little A had his first real swim in warm water. He wore every flotation device invented as he floated with us down the springs which stretch about a hundred metres. He loved it and it was great to have him come along for the ride. 

The big kids threw on their goggles and snorkels and spent most of the swim duck diving and exploring in the clear water.  

northern territory: kayaking katherine gorge

I've never been that enthused about flat water kayaking. I love the dynamic nature of the ocean - the swell, waves and surge around the rocks. That intoxicating smell of salt spray. However, one hears so much praise about Katherine Gorge and years ago when I was there with my younger brother we weren't able to get up the river so I decided to ask my wife for some time off to paddle up the gorge this time!

I left early in the morning before the kids got up for breakfast. I thought I'd be up at sunrise every morning of this year long trip but soon realised that despite my expectations of a year long 'holiday' the full-time work of 'growing up' a young family rapidly brought me back to reality. My wife and I stay up late, grasping onto the limited time alone together, only to be left tired the next morning. Just like home!

Once I slid into the mirror smooth green/brown water of Nitmiluk and began stroking upstream I began drifting into the world of quiet, solitude, reflection and solace. It was easy to get into a rhythm and as usual found my mind skipping from topic to topic, family-work-that was a freshwater croc-holidays-family-white breasted sea eagle-work-holidays-getting hot now-family...

The gorge is large and there are some beautiful sandy spits and banks with signs warning to keep clear of these fragile freshwater crocodile nesting sites. The first gorge seems to be the widest and as one gets further upstream the narrower it becomes. The towering orange brick-like cliffs looming in over me reminded me of the narrow canals in Amsterdam lined by leaning Dutch terrace houses!

Where I could I kept to the shady side seeking relief from the tropical sun. The first gorge ends at a rocky barrier that would produce some fun rapids when the water level was higher. There was very little flow when we were there so I dragged my kayak (the beauty of plastic!) up the middle and took advantage of a couple of pools that I could paddle across.

I paddled up to the third gorge which is as far as one is allowed to go on a day permit. It wasn't until I was there that I thought that I'd missed a good opportunity to do another solo overnighter (Steep Point being the last) by camping further up the gorge for a night.

Instead I sat on some rocks under a battered, almost horizontal paperbark tree between the second and third gorges and listened to the gurgling of Nitmiluk as it passed by me on its long course to the ocean. It was a wonderful moment and thoughts came to me of my late father who would have so enjoyed following our journey. I deliberately hadn't brought a camera with me this time and took in the scene before me intending to sketch it from memory when the kids were next drawing.

The thought of freshly ground coffee urged me back to our roaming home and we were also heading into Katherine town to catch up with some friends, another travelling family, who were overtaking us on their way east too. 

As I paddled back downstream it was the vibrant and varied colours of the gorge walls that stuck in my mind. Colour has been a recurring feature in my memories of this trip. The colours of northern Australia in particular really gets to me. Some of the most pleasurable moments have been driving the vast distances in this wondrous country of ours. Through the deep reds and oranges of the many Pilbara & Kimberley ranges spotted with light green and brown spinifex hummocks, through open savannah and Gulf country with miles of dry native grasses, oranges, purples, browns, yellows, the thin white trunks of the eucalypts with their dark green foliage stamped against the deep blue sky. We've had hours and hours of this and I love it.

northern territory: katherine gorge

We were at Katherine Gorge for two nights but arriving late in the afternoon we only had the time to cool off in the pool before dinner and bed. 

The lovely Matt and Georgia adopted B & P as regulars to their camper. The couple are just finishing their university degrees and are travelling the country for eight months. What a brilliant thing to be doing at their age. They made our stay a lot simpler by reading and playing with the kids while we packed and cleaned up. Thanks guys! I hope one day, when you travel again with your family some young'ns will help you out! 

J was up early and in his kayak on the water (after buying his permit). He paddled up through to Gorge Number Three and while he did forget his camera he did make this sketch on his return. These special moments in the quiet in the kayak are relished! (see the following post - J's blog post about his kayak up the gorge.)

The kids and I were slow going in the morning. Little A had his brekky and then explored every inch of dirt in the campground until he was coated in it. He had a ball! We had a swim in the pool then headed back in to Katherine to meet friends at Katherine Springs. We'd met this family at Sandy Cape, WA and travelled with them to Geraldton and Kalbarri and it was nice to see familiar faces although they're looking somewhat tanned after five weeks in Bali! 

northern territory: nitmiluk national park, leliyn

Also known as Edith Falls, Leliyn is a beautiful spot. There are a few bush walks from the campground ($25/n for the family) and we chose to take the kids on the 1.6km loop to the Upper Pool and back down the other side. We also left our camera behind so there are no photos of the gorgeous rock pools. 

On our second day B got through some school work before heading to the huge lower pool. It wasn't as warm as the springs though! 

B has taken to whittling again and made this neat spear. The hammock was a good spot to read the afternoon away with a new book. 

Initially we thought we'd stay a night but ended up staying three at Leliyn. The grounds are pleasant with actual real green grass! Fellow travellers will understand our excitement as we had somewhere the kids could run and Little A could practice his walking. We were pleased to not be packing, unpacking and racing off. 

Little A is cutting a good set of (five or more) teeth at the moment and whilst we've noticed he's a slightly more demanding version of his usual happy-go-lucky self, he's coping pretty well with the pain. After thirteen months he's finally going to have some teeth to gnaw with!

northern territory: tjuwaliyn hot springs

We'd planned to farewell my parents from Kakadu but it made sense to change (ever changing) plans when they mentioned a possible return to Tjuwaliyn (also known as Douglas Daly). There are exceptions to the rule of never going backwards and this was one of them. The campground is by the banks of The springs and its a short walk down to the water which is a woman's sacred site. Visitors are asked to bathe only in the sections of the springs close to the campground which were mind blowing. Although the water temperate varied in pools some of the water was too hot to touch let alone swim in. 

A bunch of kids lined up to do bombies. The pool came with its own springboard.  

Little A had a ball sometimes crawling, sometimes swimming, sometimes walking through the water. The temperature was bearable for the little lad. 

And the rest of us! 

It was a sad farewell with my parents who we had such a memorable holiday with. We're all going to miss other!

Ochre paints at the springs. Thanks Mum for this photo. 

northern territory: anbangbang, yellow waters

There's no better way to experience the wetlands of Yellow Waters than on a crocodile-proof cruise which we did with Ma and Grug. The kids were just as excited for the five-minute bus ride to the jetty as the boat ride. 

An egret, a shag and a whitebreasted sea eagle on the banks of Yellow Waters. 

There was so much wildlife to see on the cruise - dozens of huge (and smaller) saltwater crocodiles and beautiful water birds including eagles, kites, egrets, brolgas and rainbow bee-eaters. The billabong was lined with the beautiful lotus and pandanus plants. It must be magic to see this place teaming with wildlife during the wet and at the beginning of the dry season. 

Anbangbang (wrongly but more commonly known as Nourlangie) is about half an hour by car from Cooinda and the site of more incredible rock art. Sheltered by huge overhangs much of the paint has remained intact over thousands of years. If you're in the area be sure to tack on to a free ranger guided talk. The national park rangers present informative and engaging talks about the sites. 

Thanks to my mum for these two photographs. 

On our tour with Animal Tracks Patsy taught us how to identify a green ant's nest. Green ants are a bush medicine used to relieve a headache and quell a sore tummy. We showed the children how, with a quick movement, Patsy quickly removed a nest and squished the ants before producing the medicine. Strangely the ants do taste like salt and vinegar chips. 

northern territory : kakadu, gagadju, maguk

Maguk Falls was a short drive in (on dirt) from the Gungurul free camp ($6.60/n) on the Kakadu Highway. It's about a kilometre up to the falls on a raised boardwalk and then along a rocky path. The waterhole is huge and beautiful.

Thanks to my mum for these three photos. 

We needed a swim after a hot walk in to the falls and it wasn't long before the kids and J were jumping off the rocks in to the cool water. Soon after B was scaling the five metre high cliffs and jumping in to the water hole and coming up beaming. Our boy has certainly gained a mountain of confidence since we left Sydney eight months ago. 

You can just see the colours of Bs rash vest as he's plunging in to the water hole!

Nothing can compare to the black kites which soar the Kimberley and top end skies. You'll be outside only to have a shadow fly overhead and look up to see the unmistakable outline of the scalloped tail and distal wings of the black kite.  

Slowly the black kites have been replaced by the whistling kite with their distinctive cries. These birds both hone in on the fire fronts when traditional burning takes place in the Kimberley and Kakadu, searching for small prey who scuttle out from the bush in search of safety from the fire. 

Traditional Burning takes place in the dry season and continues to be a practice used by National Parks to maintain biodiversity in this region. Fires are critical for the reproduction of some plants while others suffer under the conditions so a balance is necessary in considering the needs of a range of species in the parks. 

northern territory: kakadu, gagadju, ubirr

The lookout provides an insanely awesome vantage point across the wetlands at Ubirr and in to Arnhem Land. We took our picnic dinner up the hill to watch the sun set on another day. 

B said that he always does the "thumbs up" so people know it's a good place to visit. 

After our very disrupted sleep the night before we bunkered down with sticky tape across the window seals. We bombed the inside of the van with a generous spray of mortein in the afternoon which we usually avoid but bought especially. It was a huge relief when we all woke up after sunrise the next morning. 

The free ranger-lead talks throughout Kakadu provide insight in to this sacred place. There's also weaving workshops run by local women. We caught up with Ranger Glen at Ubirr and joined him on a 2.5 hour long visit to the art sites. 

In addition to the history of the ancient artworks we heard a lot about the hard work that the community put in to have Gagadju recognised as a national park and eventually as a World Heritage Area. 

A figure with swollen limbs is depicted in the image below. It is said that swollen joints are a common side affect on the body after exposure to radioactive material. You may or may not remember that the Jabiru Uranium Mine is located in Jabiru. This image is thousands of years old. 

This is the place where locals say the Rainbow Serpent left its imprint in the rock after creating the surrounding parts of Kakadu. It may not be convincing to everyone but right across the world people have creation stories. 

northern territory: darwin

We initially thought we'd just duck in to Darwin, meet Ma and Grug and head back out of town but we needed to restock the fridge and get a few odd jobs done. Standing in the Optus shop for three hours isn't my idea of fun but it had to be done! 

Free Spirit Caravan Park had been recommended to us by travelling friends and with three pools, jumping pillow, a free kids club and usual amenities it was a comfortable place to stay. Whilst it was a bit of a drive in to town it was close to the free and awesome YMCA water park in Palmerston! I should have done my research because our dearest girl didn't meet the height minimum of 110cm for the big slide (but she may or may not have got two slides in before we realised). 

Rapid Creek Markets is a foodies heaven and you can buy anything from the freshest Asian fruit and veggies to soups, homemade rice noodle and egg noodles for your own cooking. There's herbs and Asian desserts. Our daughter asked that I bring back a pineapple and a mango. I also grabbed veggies, a bright sweet watermelon. And I had the tastiest laksa for brekky. 

On the way to Darwin we met a grey nomad couple who suggested we go to Mindil Markets. "Take your own chair. Take your own drinks and take your own food," they said, "then you don't have to buy anything." Instead we took our picnic rug, our drinks bottles and ate this feast of treats from across the globe. We had Thai, Vietnamese Japanese Sri Lankan Greek and Indonesian! We love that we can sit back in an Aussie city and experience our country's diversity.

J had himself volunteered at the foreshow. That's him holding the ladder just before the entertainer juggled flaming machetes. Truly. He thinks he's going to take up a new vocation. We're not convinced.