queensland: karumba to undarra via belmore lake

It was a relief to leave the confined site at Karumba though we all began to miss our new friends, Mitch, Veronica and their kids! 

We waved goodbye to Mitch and Veronica and jumped in the car, ready for a few hours on the road before another resident of the caravan park pointed out our flat tyre on the caravan. It must have been a slow leak from that magic dirt road from Leichardt Falls. J was quick to act - replacing it with a spare one from the truck - while the kids practised their diving one last time in the pool. 

We were on the road by eleven and grabbed a good coffee at Normanton Art Gallery. 

Our small stop was just out of Croydon on the dam. This town has been ravaged by fires, drought and floods in the past decade. On the drive to the dam there's a small historical site- the remnants of a Chinese village - from the glory days of gold mining. 

Once again we picked a beautiful free camp. Belmore Lake is a bird watchers paradise with hundreds of water birds inhabiting the lake which appears as an oasis in the dry country. Once again the large open campsite was welcome and the kids collected a range of rusted tools before we ate dinner by the lake watching the birds and the sunset. 

It's particularly beautiful and was a restful night before we head off to Undarra the following morning. 

This section of the Savannah Way is interspersed with kilometres of single lane bitumen road. In reality there's plenty of space to pass oncoming traffic but it can be dicey with showering stones as both parties leave the tar. 

queensland: karumba

It was fortunate that in Karumba, despite being full of grey nomad fisherman, we were camped a few doors down from another travelling family who happened to be from Sydney too. 

The kids got on like a house on fire and when the kids finished for the day we got together and hung out eating chocolate and solving the problems of the world. It was fun. 

The kids did school work in the mornings and had the rest of the day to swim in the pool. 

We had quite a comical night at the tavern for sunset. At no time were all parents sitting watching the horizon because at least one of the kids needed to visit the loo. What eventuated was a decision to meet for the sunset the following night. The kids put on a concert while we watched the sun going down over the Gulf, ate pizza, drank beers and protected our dinner from the diving kites.

Again, we extended our stay for an additional night because we were all enjoying the company. And the pool.  

queensland: boodjamulla to karumba on the savannah way

It was hard to leave Adele's Grove. It was a relaxing week that we could have extended. 

We broke our rule again, briefly, and back tracked along the road back to Gregory Downs. If we had the time we would have stayed a night by the river like so many were. It looked beautiful. 

Heading north we hit the tiny town of Burketown where we bought a few supplies from the grocery store that had been recommended - in the post office. Some of these remote towns have deliveries of fresh food once a week. We made the most of a delivery. 

We almost stayed in Burketown but opted for the freecamp at Leichardt Falls instead. This must be an incredible sight in the wet or even after a wet wet. So much of the top end has struggled after a dry wet season. 

We do love just pulling up at a free camp for the night. 

The dirt road from Leichhardt Falls to Normanton was the best dirt we've encountered in our lives. There's always talk about the condition of dirt roads and there's a lot to be said about the impact of lots of traffic, weight and speed. 

One of Normanton's claim to fame is the shooting of the suspected largest croc in Australia by a local croc hunter. Obviously this practise isn't condoned or encouraged anymore thankfully. Normanton also housed a teeny tiny public library where the kids went crazy over the books!

Karumba is a town on the coast on the Gulf of Carpentaria. We wanted to see that sea since we had no intention of doing 'The Cape' on this trip. The population is predominantly made up of grey nomad fisherman holiday maker who fill their freezers over a few months each year. 

queensland: boodjamulla national park

Boodjamulla is the largest national park in Queensland. It's a remote spot not far from the Northern Territory border and can be accessed by a number of rugged and rough roads including the Savannah Way. We decided to take the sealed road heading north from Cloncurry, past Burke and Wills Roadhouse. 

From Corella Dam we travelled as far a freecamp listed in Camps 8, Firey Creek. Unfortunately we were the only ones parked by the side of this remote road but we found a spot right in by the dry creek bed. The kids played elaborate games with sticks and rocks and dirt before we ate dinner and fell in to bed. 

At some point in the evening J and I heard a truck stop not far from us and my mind suddenly went in to overdrive, thinking the worst. We had the genny running but kicked that off and turned the lights off too. It was a good twenty minutes before the truck took off. In retrospect it was silly to worry but it is such a remote part of the world that you just wouldn't want trouble anywhere. 

From Firey Creek it was an easy run to Gregory Downs. There are varying reports about the condition of the road in to Boodjamulla but we found it pretty good considering much of it was corrugated dirt. We couldn't get in to the national park so we booked three nights at Adele's Grove before deciding to stay four. From Adele's Grove it's a short drive to the gorges and walks in the National Park, and Riversleigh Fossil Site. The Grove is also a beautiful place to stay. We had a camp right next to the water hole - with rope swing and pontoon for the kids and big kids. 

We met another really lovely family from the Yarra Valley and we were all sad when they had to leave the following day. But we made the most of our time together. The kids played good fairies and bad fairies with long fighting sticks while we sat back and shared food stories over beer. Once the kids were down we tried a new dessert which they'd seen a French couple make. We wrapped banana with pieces of chocolate and marshmallows in al foil and cooked them on the coals of the fire. Delicious - and totally naughty! See you sometime the Yarra Smiths!

J and B went out to Riversleigh one morning - the largest fossil site of mammals in the world. This crocodile fossil has been dated as being 20 million years old. 

The fossil of a giant bird's leg bone aside fossilised rocks which would have been contained in its gut for digestion. 

The following morning J was up and gone early taking his boat up the gorgeous gorges in the national park. About eight years ago J was deliberating over buying the Valley sea kayak when I finally said that if he didn't go and buy one for himself then I'd go and buy him one. His boat has taken him so many places and given him freedom (& even taken him to work a coupe, of times a week) and I don't think he's ever regretted the purchase. There was no way that the boat was going in storage when we headed off on our trip around Australia. J had to carry his kayak through sections and was lucky to ride the rapids in a part of the gorge at Boodjamulla. (videos are on Instagram and Facebook). 

The following day hit 36°c and it felt hot but not hot, hot. We've acclimatised. We took the kids to the rock art site out at Boodjamulla National Park. There are a number of short walks there but we chose the Wild Dog walk which was best for the kids. It was anticlimactic when we arrived at the Cascades to find them full of algae. We promptly returned, hot and tired to the water hole by the canoes. That water was welcome relief!

queensland: mount Isa, corella dam

Wow. Mount Isa. A town built on mining and which literally is built on the mine. A view from the town's lookout gives you a perspective of the size of the mine with the town sprawled out underneath it. We had a full day of jobs to get done in Mount Isa. The kids patiently tagged along before we took them to the huge playground. Despite sections being closed this park was the best we've seen on the trip with activities for kids of all ages. 

We were quite sure we didn't want to stay overnight in Mount Isa so at 4pm we headed the 60km East to the Corella Dam freecamp. There's so much room by the dam here (which used to provide water for the nearby now extinct uranium mine). It was a stunning place!

But we had to childproof our fire in the morning. 

It was lucky we'd bought that playpen in Darwin. 

northern territory: kunjarra to avon downs to camooweal to mount isa

Kunjarra (Devil's Pebbles) was a beautiful place to stay the night. The family did the loop walk again in the morning (in the opposite direction) through the grass and boulders. 

 

Devil's Pebbles to Avon Downs 

From the Pebbles we used the dump point, water and fuel stop at Tennant Creek to restock the essentials before heading east at Three Ways to the Avon Downs Police Station free camp. 

As we drove across the Northern Territory border in to Queensland J remarked that this is the last state to visit. Whilst we will be returning to our home state of New South Wales in a few months, Queensland is the final state to visit on our trip around Australia. It is a milestone and a pretty big one. We're not ready to head home back to work. The kids could do with their regular school friends though as we've only seen a few travelling families briefly in the past few weeks. We are looking forward to getting settled again. There's something about a routine which is a comfort but there is one thing for sure - we are going to miss life on the road. 

I know J thought I'd never say that. There have been times when I've needed my own space and quiet but we've seen incredible things, forged stronger bonds as a family and made some wonderful friends.  

We met some fun people at Avon Downs. The couple are from Sydney and have grown up children and have purchased their first off-roader. We enjoyed a drink under the stars while discussing the complex and saddening issues that face Indigenous Australians. 

Avon Downs to Camooweal 

From Avon Downs we had a short drive to Georgina River just outside of the little town of Camooweal. What a delight this was. The billabong is drying now so the mass of pelicans fish in formation around the clock. It's a sight! 

There was playing in the mud... 

... whittling.... 

... the boys hanging... 

and Mr Whippy! I know, random! 

Brolgas were elegantly fishing along the bank too. J heard them courting overnight. Black and whistling kites flew overhead. The birdlife was remarkable. 

Brolgas at dawn. 

Camooweal to World War II Free Camp

I'll remember this day forever - not because of the late start - schoolwork, topping up water, baby's sleep. I won't remember it, necessarily, for the free camp we've pulled into and where the kids played cricket while I cooked bread, a cake and dinner. I'll remember this day for the moments on the Barkly Highway that came and went in a flash. Those were the moments that a road train was careering towards us on our side of the road as he overtook a campervan. 

I was prattling on about some review if read about a cafe in Mount Isa that we might visit while in town when I noticed (moments later than J) that the truck was in our lane. J calmly braked a bit while I held on to the glove box rail in front of me. I must say that a very rude word was repeated over and over from my mouth as I watched the truck closing in. I was eyeing up the road's shoulder and guide posts, thinking we'd be heading that way shortly. Fortunately it wasn't a drop off the side like much of the road is. 

I kept swearing (quietly) and J kept calmly assessing the situation until the road train finally pulled in to his lane and left our hearts back where they belonged. The truckie kindly acknowledged what had occurred with an apologetic wave and I waved frantically and thankfully at the campervan behind him. 

For a long, long time I couldn't talk. My heart was thumping through my chest and I had to lean my head on the dash. 

My thoughts were with our three little kids in the back of the car who were unwittingly listening to their audiobooks (and babbling - the baby). 

In an instant, life can be changed forever. We've seen some stupid stuff on the roads. Within half an hour later a car overtook us on a blind corner and seconds later a road train appeared. Every day on the road is risky business. There are many close calls and I don't plan to have another one. 

I was so proud of J. His calm manner served us well today and he assessed the situation as it came. Leaving the road while towing a three and a half tonne caravan would not have been ideal and we arrived safely at our destination, the WWII free camp just west of Mount Isa. 

northern territory: bitter springs to elliot, devil's pebbles

It was a very long day in the car, one of our longest from Bitter Springs to Elliot, a small town halfway between Darwin and Alice Springs. The Longreach Waterhole free camp, on a dirt road out of town, had the red tick in Camps 8 so we were eager to see how it measured up. Our friends, Fifty Toes Walkabout, had planned to stay overnight there too and we were pleased that there was space to pull up near them. This family are virtually our neighbours in Sydney and there we were by a remote billabong in NT, catching up.

There were loads of sites along the water. A grassy outlook (not dusty) is always a preferable floor at the entrance to a van too. 

Longreach Waterhole was home to many bird species including terns, pelicans, kites. It was teaming with wildlife! 

We got dinner together as the kids played and the two families sat down together to share experiences we'd had since leaving Sydney. We slept well that night after a fire and chat once the kids were in bed. The stars were endless and the quiet such a comfort. It reminded us of nights on the family farm near Bega. 

Elliot to Kunjarra (Devil's Pebbles)

Devil's Pebbles or Kunjarra is a beautiful free camp just south of Three Ways off the Stuart Highway. While we aren't snobby about free camps it is so wonderful to stay in an impressive one. 

Devil's Pebbles, I imagine, are the smaller version of the Marbles. There's a short loop walk through the pebbles and visitors are asked to remain on the path so as to avoid trampling this sacred site.

northern territory: katherine to bitter springs

We popped in to the wonderful Finch Cafe before leaving the town of Katherine. Locals must be pleased to have a place that serves great coffee, decent food and a well-equipped kids playroom!

Mataranka is a popular place and it's easy to see why. It's accessible and not a bad dip - lolling about on a noodle. The kids loved diving for rocks in the bottom of the pool (much to the dismay of a grumpy grey). 

Bitter Springs is definitely our preferred swimming option though. We camped at the campground nearby which meant we could get down to the warm water nice and early before it had been stirred up. I was so pleased that J suggested that I throw on the snorkel. The visibility was incredible and while there wasn't much to see (turtles, weed, plants) seeing the underwater world just adds to the experience. 

Little A had his first real swim in warm water. He wore every flotation device invented as he floated with us down the springs which stretch about a hundred metres. He loved it and it was great to have him come along for the ride. 

The big kids threw on their goggles and snorkels and spent most of the swim duck diving and exploring in the clear water.  

northern territory: kayaking katherine gorge

I've never been that enthused about flat water kayaking. I love the dynamic nature of the ocean - the swell, waves and surge around the rocks. That intoxicating smell of salt spray. However, one hears so much praise about Katherine Gorge and years ago when I was there with my younger brother we weren't able to get up the river so I decided to ask my wife for some time off to paddle up the gorge this time!

I left early in the morning before the kids got up for breakfast. I thought I'd be up at sunrise every morning of this year long trip but soon realised that despite my expectations of a year long 'holiday' the full-time work of 'growing up' a young family rapidly brought me back to reality. My wife and I stay up late, grasping onto the limited time alone together, only to be left tired the next morning. Just like home!

Once I slid into the mirror smooth green/brown water of Nitmiluk and began stroking upstream I began drifting into the world of quiet, solitude, reflection and solace. It was easy to get into a rhythm and as usual found my mind skipping from topic to topic, family-work-that was a freshwater croc-holidays-family-white breasted sea eagle-work-holidays-getting hot now-family...

The gorge is large and there are some beautiful sandy spits and banks with signs warning to keep clear of these fragile freshwater crocodile nesting sites. The first gorge seems to be the widest and as one gets further upstream the narrower it becomes. The towering orange brick-like cliffs looming in over me reminded me of the narrow canals in Amsterdam lined by leaning Dutch terrace houses!

Where I could I kept to the shady side seeking relief from the tropical sun. The first gorge ends at a rocky barrier that would produce some fun rapids when the water level was higher. There was very little flow when we were there so I dragged my kayak (the beauty of plastic!) up the middle and took advantage of a couple of pools that I could paddle across.

I paddled up to the third gorge which is as far as one is allowed to go on a day permit. It wasn't until I was there that I thought that I'd missed a good opportunity to do another solo overnighter (Steep Point being the last) by camping further up the gorge for a night.

Instead I sat on some rocks under a battered, almost horizontal paperbark tree between the second and third gorges and listened to the gurgling of Nitmiluk as it passed by me on its long course to the ocean. It was a wonderful moment and thoughts came to me of my late father who would have so enjoyed following our journey. I deliberately hadn't brought a camera with me this time and took in the scene before me intending to sketch it from memory when the kids were next drawing.

The thought of freshly ground coffee urged me back to our roaming home and we were also heading into Katherine town to catch up with some friends, another travelling family, who were overtaking us on their way east too. 

As I paddled back downstream it was the vibrant and varied colours of the gorge walls that stuck in my mind. Colour has been a recurring feature in my memories of this trip. The colours of northern Australia in particular really gets to me. Some of the most pleasurable moments have been driving the vast distances in this wondrous country of ours. Through the deep reds and oranges of the many Pilbara & Kimberley ranges spotted with light green and brown spinifex hummocks, through open savannah and Gulf country with miles of dry native grasses, oranges, purples, browns, yellows, the thin white trunks of the eucalypts with their dark green foliage stamped against the deep blue sky. We've had hours and hours of this and I love it.

northern territory: katherine gorge

We were at Katherine Gorge for two nights but arriving late in the afternoon we only had the time to cool off in the pool before dinner and bed. 

The lovely Matt and Georgia adopted B & P as regulars to their camper. The couple are just finishing their university degrees and are travelling the country for eight months. What a brilliant thing to be doing at their age. They made our stay a lot simpler by reading and playing with the kids while we packed and cleaned up. Thanks guys! I hope one day, when you travel again with your family some young'ns will help you out! 

J was up early and in his kayak on the water (after buying his permit). He paddled up through to Gorge Number Three and while he did forget his camera he did make this sketch on his return. These special moments in the quiet in the kayak are relished! (see the following post - J's blog post about his kayak up the gorge.)

The kids and I were slow going in the morning. Little A had his brekky and then explored every inch of dirt in the campground until he was coated in it. He had a ball! We had a swim in the pool then headed back in to Katherine to meet friends at Katherine Springs. We'd met this family at Sandy Cape, WA and travelled with them to Geraldton and Kalbarri and it was nice to see familiar faces although they're looking somewhat tanned after five weeks in Bali!