western australia: windjana gorge to fitzroy crossing via tunnel creek

It's a short drive from Windjana Gorge to Lillimooloora Station, the site where Jandamarra shot his friend, the policeman Richardson in order to free his people and from where he fled in to the Gorge at the onset of the three year battle which claimed many of the Banuba people and finally Jandamarra himself. 

The police outpost is now in ruins. Just standing at the station gives you a sense of the distances Jandamarra travelled. 

We love the boab trees right across the Kimberley and the red red dirt. 

Tunnel Creek is a thirty minute drive on the dirt and is where Jandamarra hid from police during the resistance. Sadly this is the place where the black tracker, Mickey, tracked and finally shot Jandamarra. 

In places you wade through knee deep water in the tunnel in the dark. To add to the adventure a few freshies inhabit the waters, which I was not aware of until J pointed out the bronze eyes staring at us! 

They stared. I might have squealed. And then they disappeared under the very water I had to wade back through! Did I mention it was pitch black?

Ironically we happened upon the huge muster of Brahman on the Leopold Down Station which is situated between Tunnel Creek and the highway. It was an impressive sight to see the cattle thundering around the rocks and boabs followed by a man on a motorbike while a helicopter hovered about jerking in one direction and then the next. 

Can you spot J, all of six foot three in this huge boab? We lept from the car (leaving the kids to ponder our excitement) when we saw this great specimen. We could only wonder how long it's been there!

western australia: windjana gorge

We "did the Gibb" about seven years ago when I was pregnant with our first born. I remember the corrugated road up to Mitchell Plateau and having difficulty having a conversation in the car. The road conditions vary depending on when the grader has gone through and how much traffic the road has endured. We decided that, despite the caravan being an off-roader, we'd leave it in Derby if we were to do the Gibb and that its just too special to miss Mitchell if we were to start the journey. It became evident, as we headed up the coast towards Derby, that we wouldn't do the trip this time and we'd wait until the kids are older. Two to three hours driving a day is best for our family with a break around the two hour mark. There are usually toilet stops in that first two hours too so it's slow going. 

We returned to Windjana Gorge though. The few kilometres from the turn off to Windjana was the toughest but it's so worth it. The tracks are well trodden by the thousands of visitors who, either privately or on tour, enter the National Park each year and whilst more people are visiting, the area has not lost its intrgue.The gorge is impressive and it's an equally beautiful place to go to sleep as it is to wake up in! 

The campground has had the addition of showers and toilets since we first visited and it cost us $24 per night.

Windjana Gorge is the setting of a three year campaign of Indigenous resistance to white settlement by the Banuba people, lead by Jandamarra. The establishment of this area for pastoral purposes came at a great cost to the local Aboriginal people whose sophisticated societal structure was decimated by those who were forging economic growth in Western Australia and the nation. Ironically that economic growth was dependent on free Aboriginal labour on those pastoral stations. 

Jandamarra's journey from being rejected by his family after an internal dispute to working for the constabulary and then fighting for his people is detailed in two books, Jandamarra and the Bunuba Resistance by Pedersen and Woorunmurra. A children's book, Jandamarra, has been written by Mark Greenwood. Our children engaged with this history and staying at Windjana Gorge took on a deeper meaning for them. Of course there were many questions asked and the discussions were sophisticated as they processed what had occurred here and across Australia. We could have told our kids stories like this one (and we will continue to) but it's experiences like this which will etch their understanding in to their beings. I am grateful to be able to both experience this (as a person, a mum as a teacher) and give my kids these experiences too. 

western australia: derby, mowanjum

Derby (pronounced der-bi not dar-bi)

The prison boab tree which was used by police as a lock-up during the transportation of Aboriginal prisoners. It is also considered a site of spiritual significance for the people who lived around Derby. 

It was one of those serendipitous days that had us watching traditional Warroora dances by a billabong just out of Derby. 

We'd arranged to meet our friend Donny in Mowanjum after lunch but the day didn't quite turn out as planned. 

Realising we'd be too early J drove us down to the Derby jetty with our packed lunch. The kids were intrigued knowing that salties linger in the mangroves just by the jetty. We ate our lunch under a shelter where other tourists gathered. All of us were avoiding the humid heat of the day. As often happens, we each shared where we were from and whether we were going "over the top" or "around the bottom" of the country. 

It wasn't long before I established that fellow traveller, Anne, was from Canberra. It wouldn't have been surprised me if we had some friends in common given that a significant number of family friends live there. We spoke about travel and grandkids until my husband came over and in order to introduce Anne I asked her name, introduced my husband and offered my own name. 

I do have an unusual name and Anne remarked "I've only ever known one other person with that name" and she used my first and maiden names. "That's me!" I said, stunned. "That's me." Well, Anne said, "I knew you as a baby." 

This, and the following half hour conversation by the Derby wharf, was the reason we were late in meeting Donny in Mowanjum. When we arrived he'd already left to watch the rehearsals for the festival. Performances for the festival were to include a song by Donny's father. 

After asking around someone told us to just go out and see Donny. We followed the mud map he drew us until we found ourselves by the edge of a lily covered billabong. Kids (of all ages) and adults were singing and practising their dances - which told the stories of the people of Mowanjum - spanning across country and time. 

There is much written about the people who now call Mowanjum home and their journey from the north. While Mowanjum is a temporary home they often speak of returning to country. 

I sat there, on the bank of that waterhole, the dirt being kicked up by feet in the last shards of sunlight, knowing that there'd never be a moment like it. What a privilege. 

western australia: broome

Amanda and Gavin and their two kids from Sydney met us in Broome for a holiday! When they told us they wouldn't be in Broome until late June we had to think how we'd fill in the nine weeks from Perth to Broome up the west coast. Thanks to them we slowed right down and were able to really enjoy some places along the way! 

Our eight night stay in Broome soon became twelve because we were having such a great time. There's so much to see and do and it was fun being with old friends! Miss P's new friend, Pippa, also celebrated her fourth birthday with a pool party in the caravan park which was fun!

What a visit to Broome without a ride along Cable Beach on these guys? Camels are roaming free throughout the top from the days when Afghani cameleers travelled through. Some are captured and spend the rest of their days giving joy rides to tourists like us! 

The Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park was another attraction on our list. The kids were given the chance to hold these little salties before a croc-feeding tour. It was incredible to see how primitive these creatures are.  

We were in Broome at just the right time to see the dinosaur footprints off Gantheaume Point and the staircase to the moon. Both were far more impressive than we'd expected. 

The first night we ate dinner from the markets at Town Beach while we watched the moon rise. A great place to watch the second night of the staircase is at the Mangrove Hotel who put on food and music. 

I also had a good long browse through the collection of books published by Magabala Books in town. They publish books, fiction and non fiction, for all ages by Indigenous authors and I came away with a handful of great resources. 

The Cygnet Bay showroom (one of the only three farms in Australia) holds free demonstrations. You can watch a pearl being extracted from an oyster and a talk about pearl farming. We really enjoyed this. 

If you do want to buy a Broome pearl then you may be buying a pearl from Broome but it's worth checking if the pearl was produced in Australia. I was surprised to learn that the majority of south sea pearls sold in Broome are from overseas! 

The Japanese cemetery is worth a visit in town. 

A little deli/cafe down the road from our accomodation at Cable Beach Caravan Park (which we recommend) was The Zookeepers Store. They sell a small selection of gourmet foods. The coffee was good (not great) and a mug came in a cup not much bigger than a regular cup size. Their food, however, was most impressive with housemade calzone, sweet pastries and goodies. 

The Blue Buddha Sanctuary next door to Cable Beach Caravan Park is a must if you like your yoga! My friend Miranda and I enjoyed our early yoga mornings followed by Zookeeper calzone!  

If you're in to your sports you should check out websites for local games. We caught a couple of games of AFL with the local teams in town. Those tall lads can jump! 

The markets are held the grounds of the courthouse every Saturday morning. There's the usual wares you'd expect at a market in Broome - sarongs, pearls (imported), jewellery, some fresh produce and a variety of food. I bought myself two gorgeous dresses from Unfurl. 

The two dads took themselves out on a fishing charter one morning and came back with quite a catch! I think there were four fish caught between them including two snapper and this impressive Spanish Mackerel. We enjoyed fresh fish and we'll be eating it from the freezer for weeks to come! 

The Cable Beach Caravan Park is just around the corner from the beach so when our little one was waking up at 5:30 we rode him down to the beach in the trailer. 

It was my birthday while we were in Broome too so my husband hailed a pedicab and they rode he, Baby A and I down to the beach for sunset. Our kids watched movies with our friends, the Wrights while we were treated to a night out. Thanks Em & James!!

western australia: broome

Friends from Sydney met us in Broome for a holiday! When they told us they wouldn't be in Broome until late June we had to think how we'd fill in the nine weeks from Perth to Broome up the west coast. Thanks to them we slowed right down and were able to really enjoy some places along the way! 

Our eight night stay in Broome soon became twelve because we were having such a great time. There's so much to see and do and it was fun being with old friends!

What a visit to Broome without a ride along Cable Beach on these guys? Camels are roaming free throughout the top from the days when Afghani cameleers travelled through. Some are captured and spend the rest of their days giving joy rides to tourists like us! 

The Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park was another attraction on our list. The kids were given the chance to hold these little salties before a croc-feeding tour. It was incredible to see how primitive these creatures are.  

We were in Broome at just the right time to see the dinosaur footprints off Gantheaume Point and the staircase to the moon. Both were far more impressive than we'd expected. 

The first night we ate dinner from the markets at Town Beach while we watched the moon rise. A great place to watch the second night of the staircase is at the Mangrove Hotel who put on food and music. 

I also had a good long browse through the collection of books published by Magabala Books in town. They publish books, fiction and non fiction, for all ages by Indigenous authors and I came away with a handful of great resources. 

The Cygnet Bay showroom (one of the only three farms in Australia) holds free demonstrations. You can watch a pearl being extracted from an oyster and a talk about pearl farming. We really enjoyed this. 

If you do want to buy a Broome pearl then you may be buying a pearl from Broome but it's worth checking if the pearl was produced in Australia. I was surprised to learn that the majority of south sea pearls sold in Broome are from overseas! 

The Japanese cemetery is worth a visit in town. 

A little deli/cafe down the road from our accomodation at Cable Beach Caravan Park (which we recommend) was The Zookeepers Store. They sell a small selection of gourmet foods. The coffee was good (not great) and a mug came in a cup not much bigger than a regular cup size. Their food, however, was most impressive with housemade calzone, sweet pastries and goodies. 

The Blue Buddha Sanctuary next door to Cable Beach Caravan Park is a must if you like your yoga! My friend Miranda and I enjoyed our early yoga mornings followed by Zookeeper calzone!  

If you're in to your sports you should check out websites for local games. We caught a couple of games of AFL with the local teams in town. Those tall lads can jump! 

The markets are held the grounds of the courthouse every Saturday morning. There's the usual wares you'd expect at a market in Broome - sarongs, pearls (imported), jewellery, some fresh produce and a variety of food. I bought myself two gorgeous dresses from Unfurl. 

The two dads took themselves out on a fishing charter one morning and came back with quite a catch! I think there were four fish caught between them including two snapper and this impressive Spanish Mackerel. We enjoyed fresh fish and we'll be eating it from the freezer for weeks to come! 

The Cable Beach Caravan Park is just around the corner from the beach so when our little one was waking up at 5:30 we rode him down to the beach in the trailer. 

It was my birthday while we were in Broome too so my husband hailed a pedicab and they rode he, Baby A and I down to the beach for sunset. Our kids watched movies with our friends, the Wrights while we were treated to a night out. Thanks Em & James!!

happy first birthday!

Our eldest celebrated his first birthday with friends and family at the park opposite where we lived in the city in Sydney. Our daughter had a combined pirate party with her brother in our backyard for her first birthday. Our youngest turned one at Middle Lagoon at Cape Levecke and he also had a party to celebrate the momentous occasion. 

Arlo was surrounded by new friends we've met on our travels, the Nelson- Hauers, Kate, Roo and their family of four kids and surrogate grandparents Gail and Terry. The camp site was decorated with homemade bunting and balloons. Arlo had a little help opening a few pressies that his grandparents and great grandmother had sent too. Thank you so much Jo for the beautiful photographs!

Thanks Gail and Terry for the bubbles! 

What's a party without games? The kids played pass the parcel and had a treasure hunt. The kids had to read and follow the clues throughout the campground. The final treasure was an....

ice-cream cake! A yummy treat for a stinking hot day! I made a carrot cake with cream cheese icing for the adults (but a few of them tucked in to a slice of both!) 

Happy Birthday Little Manny. You mean the world to us and you've brought us endless love in the first year of your life. Thank you for all that you bring to our family. 

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