Wafu chef: 'Yes, I'm rude'

People need more communication skills and should learn how to eat properly, says Yukako Ichikawa, chef of the notoriously strict Wafu restaurant.

"Stop there!"
It seemed a typically unwelcoming greeting bellowed from the kitchen of Sydney's "iron chef" Yukako Ichikawa.
The Herald was left standing nervously at the door of her Japanese restaurant Wafu for five long minutes yesterday, wondering what might happen next in the presence of a woman famous for kicking out wasteful diners and "non-members".
Yukako Ichikawa ... wants to come into your kitchen. Yukako Ichikawa ... wants to come into your kitchen. Photo: Ben Rushton

There she was artfully wielding a knife just hours after she'd made headlines around the country for announcing the closure of Wafu in a scathing review of Sydney's "inconsiderate, greedy" and "intolerable" people.
But on hearing the overwhelming reader reaction to Wafu's notorious rules and her frank verdict on the city's diners, Ichikawa did something unexpected.
Letting out a loud giggle, she happily cleared space on her bench for the Herald's notebook.

Membership policy ... Yukako Ichikawa's Wafu is closing down. Membership policy ... Yukako Ichikawa's Wafu is closing down. Photo: Ben Rushton

Highly passionate about sustainability and healthy eating, Ichikawa explained the majority of Sydney's diners had left her feeling very negative.
"If I open to all people, money is OK, but I don't want to fail my philosophy in myself," she said, while making a brown rice roll.
"If I'm negative, I can't take any big action.

The sign outside Wafu, telling diners what's expected of them. The sign outside Wafu, telling diners what's expected of them. Photo: Stephanie Gardiner

"I just have to stop and refill my energy levels."
Ichikawa chopped, fried and steamed with precision, while sharing her views about chemicals in food, the dangers of eating too much, and pondering how people could eat huge meals while others are starving.
And watch out: Ichikawa wants to come to your house.
When Wafu closes in two months, she plans to teach people how to cook and eat well in their own kitchen and wants to show school children how to grow vegetables.
"I want people to know how to make variety.
"If I cook at their place I can show them how to cook restaurant food in their home."
Ronni Kahn, the founding director of OzHarvest, which collects surplus food from restaurants and cafes to feed the needy, said Ichikawa took an admirable risk in the way she operated Wafu.
"I have been there when she's kicked people out. So she is an extreme example," Ms Kahn said.
"She was eccentric, but had a mission and she didn't want to compromise and it has cost her greatly.
"I respect that she tried to do something that's quite unique and that was based on principle."
Herald restaurant critic Terry Durack said he was sorry to see Wafu close.
"I love that Sydney is big enough to support restaurateurs of all philosophies - even highly eccentric ones.
"Yukako Ichikawa has decided to enforce a way of eating that she considers is respectful and healthy; it was our choice as to whether we took her up on it or not.
"Wafu was part of the wonderful mix of Sydney dining in all its mad diversity, I'll be sorry if it goes. Not that I've eaten there - too scared."